Ask the Expert
Ask the Expert
At Lumbermen’s, we believe that our people are our greatest resource. From our customer service representatives, to our product specialists and architectural specialists, we strive to be as knowledgeable as possible about our products, so we can provide the best service and support in the industry.
If you have a question about our products or services, please submit it below. Your question will be routed to the appropriate product expert, and an answer will be posted on this page.
Previous Questions and Answers
May I purchase fiberglass doors directly from Lumbermen’s?
Lumbermen’s, Inc is a wholesaler that services Michigan, Ohio, Indiana and parts of Kentucky. We cannot sell retail.
I’m going to order a Classic-craft Fiberglass Oak door. I want a factory finish, but I’m concerned about getting the right color of stain. How can I make sure the door will look as good as it does in the pictures and I am getting the desired stain color/effect?
Each dealer should have a sample chain of actual figerglass cut outs that we have stained at our factory. This will be an accurate representation of the color/effect.
What brand of silicone would you recommend for sealing around the edge of countertops and do you offer it?
Most any brand will do fine. 100% pure silicone is the key. GE, DAP, Franklin, Axiom are good brands. We at Solid Surface do not have product for individual purchase, only for our own use.
I’m not happy with the finish on my fiberglass door as the inside fiberglass finish is rough (gritty). How can I get a better finish without stripping it? Can I buff with 4/0000 steel wool and apply additional coats as I would if it were a wood door?
The best way to get a smooth finish is to use a water-based clear coat. Repco-Lite has one that works well. You can scuff it between coats if you’d like, but instead of steel wool we recommend a Scotch-Brite pad.
I have a Therma Tru 3068 Keystone Fiber glass FC20 model door. I would like to put a door knocker on the door and would like to know what pre-cautions I should take. Is the door solid or hollow?
The door is foam filled, so the screws will only be holding onto the fiberglass door skin. That being said, you should still have no problem installing a knocker, but it is highly recommended that you use a two-part epoxy (Devcon Welder is recommended) to ensure that the knocker stays in place. Make sure you clean the area well before applying the epoxy.
How do I refinish a solid surface countertop?
Sanding/ finishing of solid surface materials should be done with a random orbit sander like the Bosch 3727DVS 6”. Abrasives come in many varieties but the system we use is 3M’s Micron system. For scratch removal we would start with the 100 micron coarse grit and continue until the scratch is removed keeping the area feathered out so as not to create a dip in the top. Once the scratches are removed we then can begin the process of bringing the damaged area to the proper sheen or gloss level. This is done by progressive steps of finer and finer grits sanding the area of the previous step, feathering out beyond the previous area. This is repeated with successively finer grits until the proper gloss level is achieved. Using a 6” random orbit sander you should spend about a minute and a half per square foot for each grit used, cleaning the surface between each step. A crosshatch pattern is used to insure a complete coverage, i.e.: left to right overlapping pattern followed with an up and down pattern and a random swirl to complete each step. For a matte finish you would use 100, then 80, then 60 micron followed with the maroon scotchbrite as your final finish. For a satin finish you would use 100, then 80, then 60, then 40 micron followed by the gray scotchbrite.
For gloss finish continue with 30 and then 15 micron grits. If extreme gloss is desired follow this with buffing and polishing compounds like 3M’s Finess-it. 3M’s micron papers are not available at local hardware stores.
Cross-reference Micron to Standard Mesh
How do I install a Perma Door replacement door model CLR 2636?
For instructions, please click here.
What is the best method for seaming Wilsonart Plastic Laminate ?
1) Sand the surface of the countertop where the seam is to be made.
2) If you are using particleboard, laminate the seam area with aluminum foil. This will protect from eventually getting a water damaged countertop seam.
3) Draw a pencil line where the seam is to be made from one point to the other.
4) Place one of the 8” straight edge boards exactly along the pencil line. This will be the guide that the router will ride on when you are cutting the two pieces of plastic laminate when making the seam.
5) Lay the remaining eight inch wide board, parallel, one inch away from the other one. The idea here is that the router will be able to set level on the two boards while you are making the seam cut.
6) Lay the two pieces of plastic laminate into position over the top of the 8” wide boards, being careful not to move them at all. Adjust the pieces of laminate so that there are equal overhangs all around the countertop edges. You should do this with your tape measure. If you laminate is 1 1/2” wider and longer then you should have a ¾” overhang all around.
7) Use the spring clamps and place them all around the top to hold the laminate in place. Do not use these around the seam area where you have your seaming guide boards set up.
8) Using the large C-clamps or Jorgenson clamps, secure the mica, both boards underneath and the counter together on all four outer edges of the guild boards.
9) Adjust the depth of the straight router bit deep enough to cut through both pieces of the plastic laminate.
10) Fire up the router and make a steady cut through both pieces of laminate using the proper guide board underneath for the router bit pilot to ride against. DO NOT stop while making this cut. You must push or pull the router at a pace that will not chip the laminate because you are moving too fast and will not burn the guide board underneath because you are moving too slow.
11) Loosen the clamps that are holding the guide boards, but do not remove the spring clamps. It is critical at this point to not move the laminate pieces from where their positions are in relation to each other.
12) Remove the excess pieces of plastic.
13) Using a small straight edge, mark a pencil line across both pieces of the plastic laminate at a 90 degree angle to the seams edges. Make three marks, one in the front of the top, one in the middle and one on the back edge area. These will be used to help align the two pieces together exactly the way they are cut.
14) Remove the piece of laminate that is not aligned (1/4” away from) with the seam line on the countertop. Then, carefully take the guide board out and then make pencil marks on the countertop that match the pencil marks that you previously put on the plastic. This will help you get the mica in its exact position when it is time to contact glue it into place.
15) You can now remove everything and clean all of the router chips off of the counter and the Formica.
16) Turn the laminate over the file the edge of the seam only on the bottom side. This is done to just clean up the edge a bit. DO NOT file the seam on the finished side of the material.
17) Apply the contact glue to the board and to the mica. Prior to sticking the two together, make sure that you clean the edge of the laminate seam on both pieces with lacquer thinner. Don’t saturate the glue though with the thinner.
18) Once the glue is dry, place the dowel rods on the top six to eight inches apart. You should start parallel with the seam line and fan them out to a ninety degree angle. Then, lay one piece of laminate on top of the dowel rods. This is usually the largest piece.
19) Align your small pencil marks that you made on the counter with the marks you made on the plastic laminate piece. Also, get the mica aligned with the seam pencil mark on the top. Check all the edges and make sure your mica is covering all around the top. Moving the dowel rod back slightly away from the seam, begin to stick just the edge of the plastic laminate to the line on the countertop.
20) Once you are satisfied that things are aligned perfect and the edge is slightly stuck, begin to remove the dowel rods completely out, closest to the seam area. Press the laminate down as you are removing the rods. Continue to remove all the dowels, sticking the Formica into place as you go.
21) Lay the other pieces of laminate on the dowels, align your pencil marks and push the seam tightly together. Follow the previous step of removing the dowels.
22) Using a hammer gently tap the seam area down. Be careful not to tap where the laminate is hanging over the edge.
Are the premium faux granite laminates directional?
Can I attach an undermount sink to a laminate countertop?
Yes. We have a line called Karran Acrylic Sinks that allow you to put an undermount sink with a laminate countertop. Click here for step by step instructions.
Can the hinges on an entry door be adjusted up/down?
The hinges themselves can’t be adjusted, but if the door is a Royal or Regency there is an adjustability feature in the door panels themselves.
I am going to paint on a Lumbermen’s wood-grained fiberglass door. Do I need to prime it with something or can I paint directly on the door?
See link below for complete finishing instructions for painting woodgrain fiberglass doors.
What do you recommend to cover the white door frame on my prefinished oak fiberglass door with sidelites
Can 2″ Non-vented Nailbase rigid insulation be used to span beams 36″ on center on a 3 in 12 roof framing system? The live load is 25 lbs/sf with 250 lb/sqare asphalt shingles.
No you cannot span anything with nailbase it is not a structural load panel.
How do I clean the operating window in a door with a half screen?
1) Raise the venting sash all the way up
2) Take screen out by prying it with a putty knife from one of the sides toward the center
3) Lower venting sash and clean as you would any standard window
4) Raise venting sash back up and re-install screen
What can I do about our Wilsonart sink? It is starting to yellow.
Wilsonart® Sinks General Cleaning:
Wilsonart® sinks and bowls may be cleaned with warm water and mild soaps, such as those used for hands and dishes. Mild abrasive cleaners such as Bon-ami®, Comet® or Soft Scrub® also work very well.
For stubborn residue, apply one of the mild abrasives cleaners above and with a green Scotch-Brite™ pad, buff in a circular motion over the entire sink to blend finish.
Run warm water if pouring boiling water in sink
Allow cookware to cool before placing in sink
Do not expose the surface to harsh chemicals, such as paint remover, turpentine, nail polish remover (acetone) or stove and drain cleaners. If the chemicals come in contact with the surface, immediately wash them off with water, using appropriate safety measures to avoid injury.
Do your door sweeps come in on the doors, or do you put them on when you pre-hang them?
Slabs come in to Lumbermen’s without the sweeps applied. Sweeps are applied just prior to the door being set in the frame.